D30 or D44 Disk Brake Conversion

By Mike Strukel

I would recommend that everyone do this modification before anything else. If you currently have a D30, you can do this conversion now and
move the parts to the D44 later. Once you have all of the parts, this conversion should not take you more than about 3 hours.   If you shop wisely,  this should cost you $350 -$400.

From a Junkyard you will need:
1. Spindles from a 74-76 Chevy Blazer or Pickup. You should be able to get these for about $30 per set
2. Backer Plates from a 74 - 76 blazer/Pickup. Should not cost more than about $15

I actually bought a complete D44 from a 75 Chevy for $50.     I was able to use the spindles, backing plates and also the calipers for the core charge on the new ones.

From the parts store:
Note:  All part numbers are Napa numbers unless otherwise listed:

1.  (2) Spindle Bearings #B2110. You may or may not need to replace these. They are the bearings inside the spindle and the small seal.
2.  (2) Spindle Seals #19965
3.  (2) Rotors/Hub Assembly (77-79 bronco) #86297
4.  (2) Calipers (74 Blazer loaded) #242-2022 #242-2023
5.  Brake Pads(74 Blazer) #TS-728A-M
6.  (2) Flexible Brake hose - #4136761
7.  (2) Caliper Bolts #82204
8.  (2) Banjo Bolts (74 Blazer) - I could not find the part #
9.  Caliper Bushings - Carquest # H5103
10. 76 F250 2wd Mater Cylinder 1 1/4" bore # 4735408

With this conversion, all of your current hub bearings and seals will work. If they are in good shape,  you won't need to replace them, however, since it is apart,
you should at least repack the bearings.

When you install the calipers, make sure you install them on the correct side. The bleeder screws need to be on the top! A number of people have had this problem
and it makes it impossible to get the air out of the calipers.

The flexible lines will connect to the stock hard lines, but you will need a special nut to connect to the stock mounting plate.
I found a nut that would work for this in the pipe fitting section of the local hardware store.

The Master Cylinder has a smaller fitting for the front brake lines than the stock ones, so you will need to be a little creative in the
adapter/fittings bin at the parts store.  Or you can replace the hard lines from the master cylinder to the stock proportioning valve located near the frame.

I also installed a set of Russell Speed Bleeders in place of the bleeder screws on the calipers and wheel cylinders. Summit Racing # RUS3954.
If you are not familiar with these, they are a replacement bleeder screw that has a check valve in it. You open the bleeder about 1/4 turn
and bleed that wheel. No more need for the 2 man open/close method! I would highly recommend these. I can bleed my entire system by
myself in 15 minutes!

Some people have said that you need to install a proportioning valve with this setup due to the rear wheels locking up. My setup stops excellent and I
have absolutely no problem with rear wheel lockup.